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Over 800 years ago, Polonnaruwa Ancient City was one of the most advanced cities in Asia. Today, the ruins remain well preserved and give a fascinating insight into life in Sri Lanka long ago.
Located in the North Central Province, within Sri Lanka’s famous Cultural Triangle, Polonnaruwa became the island’s capital after Anuradhapura in 993AD and flourished for many centuries until its decline in the 13th century. The city was gradually abandoned and reclaimed by the jungle until its rediscovery by the British in the 19th century. After being carefully restored and preserved, the Ancient City is now a UNESCO World Heritage site and visited by many from around the world.
In this guide, you’ll find everything you need to know about visiting Polonnaruwa, including the best things to see, how to explore the ruins and helpful travel tips for your own visit.
If you’re planning to stay overnight in Polonnaruwa then one of the easiest and most affordable ways to get there is by taking the local bus from Dambulla. It costs 250 LKR (£0.60 / $0.80) and takes around 2 hours.
Dambulla is a city conveniently located central of Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle, making it a great base for visiting nearby sites such as Kandy, Sigiriya, Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura. If you’re not planning on staying in Dambulla then it can be accessed by bus from nearly all major cities so don’t worry about connections too much, they do exist.
Of course, taxis are available to reach these places but they’re significantly more expensive. We found the local buses to be convenient, reliable and vey budget-friendly.
I chose to stay 2 nights in Polonnaruwa to be able to get up early and have a full day exploring without rushing. I highly recommend doing this and suggest staying in the New Town. I stayed at Aruna Homestay – a nice place ran by a friendly family in a great location, for a great price.
Alternatively, it’s common for people to stay in Dambulla and use it as a base to explore the Cultural Triangle. I personally used Dambulla to explore Sigiriya but it’s easy to do Polonnaruwa from here too. I stayed at Perfect Hideout – a nice homestay ran by a great family who make wonderful food!
The ancient city of Polonnaruwa covers a decently large area, so choosing the right way to explore can make a difference to your experience. There’s many options for exploring Polonnaruwa, visitors typically opt to explore the ruins by bicycle, by tuk-tuk, by motorbike or on foot. Taking a tour, either private or group tour, is also a common option for exploring. It’s completely preference, and based on what suits you personally.
Cycling: our personal choice
Cycling is one of the best ways to explore Polonnaruwa. It’s perfect for those who want to explore at their own pace whilst enjoying the peaceful atmosphere of Ancient City.
Cost: 1000 LKR (£2.40 / $3.20) per person
Time to explore: 5 hours
Walking:
Walking is an uncommon choice due to heat and distances between ruins, but it is a good option for those who enjoy long walks, can handle the heat and like an early start.
Cost: free
Time to explore: 8+ hours
Tuk-tuk Guide:
A tuk-tuk guide is a great option if you prefer a relaxing, informational experience or maybe you’re restricted on time.
Cost: 5000 LKR (£12.10 / $16 ) per tuk-tuk
Time to explore: typically a half-day (4-6 hours)
Motorbike Rental:
Motorbike rental is a less chosen option but good for those who want to explore independently but don’t want to walk or cycle.
Cost: 4000 LKR (£9.60 / $12.80 ) per bike + fuel
Time to explore: 4 hours
Things to know before visiting Polonnaruwa:
Here’s a few suggestions of some of the most impressive and important ruins to explore:
1 – Royal Palace of King Parakramabahu
This sure palace complex once stood at seven storeys and was made up of over 1000 rooms. The remains offer a glimpse into how grand the royal court really was many centuries ago.
2 – Gal Vihara
A unique part of the Ancient City that your ticket even has a specific entry for, Gal Vihara features four statues of the Buddha carved into a granite rock wall. The statues are considered to be some of the finest examples of Sinhalese stone carving.
3 – The Vatadage
One of my personal favourite structures within Polonnaruwa, the structure is well-preserved and comprised of detailed carvings, elegant staircases and seated Buddha statues around a central stupa.
4 – Shiva Devale No.2
This Hindu temple is one of oldest structures in Polonnaruwa and remains in near perfect condition.
5 – Rankot Vihara
The largest stupa at Polonnaruwa, standing at around 55 meters tall. Rankot Vihara is similar to structures that are found in Anuradhapura Ancient City.
6 – Kiri Vihara
A stand-out, unique stupa with a bright white exterior. The stupa is believed to have been built by a queen of King Parakramabahu.
7 – Lankatilaka Vihara
Another one of my favourite ruins is this impressive temple with towering walls and a large Buddha statue inside. The remains feel incredibly grand and atmospheric.
8 – Thivanka Image House
Located furthest from the entrance, Thivanka Image House is one of the largest structures at Polonnaruwa, comprised of impressive carvings depicting Buddhist stories and a huge Buddha statue.
9 – Lotus Pond (Nelum Pokuna)
A beautifully designed stone pond shaped like the petals of a lotus flower, assumed to be used by monks for ritual bathing.
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