One of the most popular things to do when visiting Amritsar is watching the Wagah Border Ceremony. The ceremony takes place every evening at sunset on the border between India and Pakistan as a daily military practice officially to close the border gates but more for the display of national pride and friendly rivalry from each side. The border is nicknamed Wagah Border but technically speaking is the Wagah-Attari Border.
The ceremony attracts up to 25,000 visitors on the Indian side alone so can get very hectic. The queues to get in were wildly long so it’s important to plan for the event accordingly. Here’s the fun part: for foreigners there is a separate section called the Foreigner Enclosure which is also often named a “VIP Section” but that’s a different thing entirely.
Here I’ll explain more about the ceremony, how to get there, what the foreigner section is and everything else you might need to know.
The Wagah-Attari border is commonly visited from the Punjab city of Amritsar which is around 30km away. The journey typically takes around an hour depending on traffic and mode of transport. There’s three main ways to get to the border depending on your budget and desired comfort:
1 – Private Taxi
How: Book your taxi though an online provider such as Uber or a local provider for a round trip journey.
Cost: 1000INR to 1500INR ($12 to $18) per taxi
Pros: private, comfort, A/C and flexibility
Cons: the most costly option
2 – Bus
How: Tourist buses depart from near the Partition Museum around 2pm and bring you back after the ceremony.
Cost: 400INR to 600INR ($5 – $7) per person
Pros: organised, no haggling
Cons: fixed schedule – the bus won’t wait for you if you take a long time to get out
3 – Shared Auto / Tuk-Tuk
How: Many drivers will hang around the Golden Temple shouting “Wagah, Wagah” and give you a ticket for later.
Cost: 100INR to 200INR ($1.20 to $2.40) per person
Pros: very cheap, local vibe
Cons: no comfort, dusty, waiting for others, squashed in with up to 9 others
When visiting the Wagah-Attari border myself, I opted for the budget-friendly option of a shared auto. I found someone earlier in the day, secured my seat for 150INR and was told to meet back at 3pm to set off. The driver was friendly but the auto was FULL. There was 10 people plus our driver all in one auto. I was dropped of close to the border, a short 10 minute walk to the entrance and was picked up from the same spot after the ceremony to be taken back to the centre of Amritsar.
The Wagah-Attari ceremony is a celebration of national pride as well as a display of rivalry. I won’t give specifics of what occurs during the ceremony to spoil it for you but it’s an interesting and impressive display of national pride from both sides. Expect lots of cheering, drama
The ceremony starts around sunset so will differ throughout the year. Typically in summer time (April to September) it starts at 5:15pm and in winter (October to March) it starts at 4:15pm. I visited in summer (May) and it started just after 6pm so don’t expect it to be exactly at these times, it depends entirely on the sun so that the flag drops as the sun dips below the horizon. The actual event usually lasts between 45 minutes and an hour.
Simply, don’t take much. You’re not allowed to take bags inside so leave them in Amritsar or you can use lockers near where the autos stop but they’re not very secure looking. I had read beforehand that no bags at all were allowed but I took a small crossbody bag and was allowed it through. I also saw plenty of other domestic and international tourists with similar sized bags so it seems they’re allowed even though online it says they’re not – they are checked at security though.
They’re very strict on what you can and can’t take through. I had my camera around my neck which was fine but I was asked if I had other batteries or power banks as these are not allowed. No tripods or selfie sticks, no video cameras or any other electronic devices such as headphones or laptops. Obvious banned things like matches, knives and lighters are a definite no. When it comes to drinks and snacks, there’s a few stalls after security selling crisps, popcorn and such which you’re allowed to take through as well as water.
You MUST take ID. As an Indian, national ID is perfectly fine but as an international tourist, you must carry your passport. Other than this, carry only cash and hotel key to avoid being turned away.
As a foreigner heading to the border to watch the ceremony, you’re automatically granted access to the designated foreigner area – some called it the VIP area but that’s something else. This essentially allows you to skip the horrendously long queues and sit in an less crowded area along the closest edge to the border gates.
To access this area, you’ll have to navigate a large crowd and long queues with no signage however it isn’t as difficult as it sounds, I had no trouble. Once you arrive and see the queues, stick left, there will likely be army personnel or security along the pathway who will check your passport and point you to the security gates without joining the queues. After security you’ll be back into the main crowds and into the main area where there’s toilets and stalls selling snacks, drinks and Indian flags. As you approach the seating area entrance, use the ground level entrance in the centre. Your passports will be checked again and possibly your bags but then you’ll be directed to your seats.
The area is located on the left side, closest to the border gates and has a bunch of seats specifically for foreigners. It’s located next to the VIP area which is allocated in two ways: to those who apply on a first-come, first-served basis by writing a letter to the Border Security Force (BSF) or Customs officials or those who attend on a private tour where local tour operators offer VIP experiences for a higher price.
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