The backwaters of Kerala are absolutely magnificent. They’re a collection of stunning waterways lined with palm trees where locals live right on the water’s edge. Crusing along the backwaters on a traditional houseboat is an absolute bucket-list experience.
Traditional boats, historically called kettuvallam, are made up of only jackwood planks and coir ropes. Historically they were used for transporting goods such as rice and spices but with modern technology they are no longer needed for this purpose meaning today they’re used as floating hotels for tourists.
Whilst visiting Kerala I chose to enjoy an overnight stay on one of these wonderful traditional houseboats and had an incredible experience. However, there are lots of options and things to know about before the backwaters and the houseboats. Here I’ll share everything you need to know from the trip length to the what the experience actually entails, how much it might cost and the realities no one else will tell you.
The great thing about a trip to Alleppey backwaters, beyond how naturally impressive it is, is that you can adapt your trip to your own preference and budget. Typically your options are the day trip or the overnight trip:
The Day Trip (4-6 Hours): Ideal for those with limited time or budget. It offers a great taste of the backwaters and a relaxing afternoon on the quiet waterways.
The Overnight Stay (20 Hours): As it suggests, you sleep on the houseboat and experience the backwaters over two days. This offers a unique experience, allowing you to catch the sunset and sunrise from the water as well as enjoy traditional home-cooked meals.
The 2-Night Stay (44 Hours): Adding to the overnight stay, this options allows travellers to completely slow down and switch off as well to see further and less-visited parts of the backwaters.
Beyond the duration of your excursion, you have two more decisions to make:
Private or Shared Houseboat: This is relatively self-explanatory. A shared houseboat is a great option if you are trying to stick to a tight budget or are solo-travelling and want to share the experience with others. However, I highly recommend paying a little extra to enjoy a private houseboat, especially if you’re travelling as a couple as having the entire houseboat to yourself makes the trip infinitely more relaxing.
Deluxe or Premium/Luxury: This choice determines your amenities, comfort level and electricity. The deluxe is the budget choice which offers a simple, classic boat with limited amenities. It typically features a lounge area and bedrooms with strict restrictions on electricity and air conditioning timings to ensure low costs. The premium and luxury options cost significantly more but offer constant air conditioning and electricity as well as larger lounge spaces with additions like rooftop decks or glass-walled seating areas.
As I was travelling with my partner, I opted for the Private Deluxe Houseboat with Triveni Houseboats and I honestly can’t recommend them enough. The communication beforehand was great, the staff were amazing and the entire experience exceeded our expectations.
Our houseboat was incredibly spacious for a deluxe option and consisted of: a main roofed lounge area with plenty of seating, an upstairs dining area, a massage bed on the rooftop, a relaxing rooftop seating area and a private bedroom with an ensuite bathroom.
On our houseboat we had electricity the entire time but the air conditioning only ran from 9pm to 6am. Honestly, it’s really not necessary to have for the entire time because for most of the day you’re relaxing in lounge space or on the rooftop with a breeze.
One of the BEST parts of the experience, the food! The stay included three huge meals: lunch after arriving, dinner after docking and breakfast the following morning as well as a mid-afternoon snack of chai and banana fitters. Every meal was made up of authentic Kerala dishes and were made fresh on the houseboat by the chef.
After docking for the evening, we were given the option of going on a smaller canal boat to watch the sunset and explore down the smaller, quieter waterways. This was an additional cost but as it was a once in a lifetime experience for us we decided to go for it. This truly elevated the already incredible experience and if you have the budget for it and are given the option to add this on then I would absolutely recommend doing it.
Here is exactly what a standard overnight stay might look like on the backwaters, based on our itinerary:
12:00 PM | Boarding & Departure
Board the houseboat, check-in, enjoy a fresh coconut as a welcome drink, tour the houseboat and set-off on your journey.
1:30 PM | Traditional Kerala Lunch
The boat anchors in a quiet spot for a huge traditional lunch of fresh fish, rice and plenty of side dishes.
2:30 PM | Canal Cruising
The captain continues cruising further through the scenic backwaters whilst you relax and enjoy the views.
4:00 PM | Mid-afternoon Snacks
Hot tea or coffee is served with local snacks such as banana fritters whilst you continue through different waterways.
5:30 PM | Night Docking
The captain docks the boat for the overnight stay to comply with local regulations.
7:00 PM | Canal Boat Sunset Cruise
An optional but recommended experience where you enjoy an hour of watching the sunset and navigating narrow waterways.
8:00 PM | Dinner & Downtime
The chef prepares and serves a traditional dinner. By 9pm the staff retire to their quarters, the A/C turns on, and you settle in for the night.
7:00 AM | Morning Cruise & Breakfast
Wake up to the stunning scenery as the boats starts moving again. Enjoy a morning coffee and wonderful breakfast as you soak in the views.
9:30 AM | Pack-up & Check-out
As the boat approaches the jetty, pack up your things and enjoy the last of the incredible views. Say goodbye to the crew and de-board.
The 6pm Curfew is Law: All houseboats on the backwaters are required by law by local regulations to anchor by latest 6pm so don’t expect to be cursing around after dark. This allows the local fishermen to lay their nets without them being destroyed.
The Deluxe Houseboat A/C Restrictions: On the budget option houseboats, the A/C is restricted to overnight (typically 9pm to 6am) as this allows costs to stay low. If you are after constant A/C then opt for the luxury or premium options.
The “Local Fish Market” Stop: The crew may stop to encourage you to buy tiger prawns or crabs to add to you dinner but do be aware that these stalls are usually marked up for houseboat tourists. The dinner included in the package is usually big enough so don’t feel pressured to buy anything unless you want to.
It Gets Crowded: The backwaters are popular, for goof reason, so don’t expect your houseboat to be the only one, especially in peak season. It’s not an issue but any means but it might not look exactly like what you’ve seen on social media.
Packages Vary: Two companies may both list “One-Night Deluxe Private Houseboat” but that doesn’t mean they’re offering the same thing. Be sure to read the descriptions of what they do and don’t include, timings and reviews.
Houseboat booking typically cover the room and your meals so consider these extra costs when booking your experience:
Transport: Getting to Alleppey town, then to the houseboat jetty and back again.
The Sunset Canal Boat (optional): An additional cruise through narrow waterways at sunset which is 100% worth it.
Fish for Dinner (optional): If you’d like to add tiger prawns or crab to your dinner then the cost is on you.
Crew Tips (optional): It is highly recommended and appreciated to tip your captain and chef after your trip, especially if you enjoyed your experience.
Welcome to The Untold Journeys, a travel blog with a focus on raw, authentic travels and finding those exciting hidden gems.
I’m here to share my experiences and stories to give you everything you need to explore the world and head on your own adventures.
If you’re ready for some insane natural beauty then here are the 10 best nature things to do in Albania:
Wild and Diverse: Malaysia’s Best Nature Spots The impressive views of Cameron Highlands’ lush tea plantations Malaysia, one of my favourite countries, is an absolute …
The backwaters of Kerala are undeniably gorgeous. Here's my honest guide to Alleppey Houseboats with tips, guidance and personal stories.
