Where to Go on the Albanian Riviera: Himarë, Sarandë, or Ksamil?

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The gorgeous and budget-friendly coast of Himarë on the Albanian Riviera, north of the popular Sarandë and Ksamil
The gorgeous Himarë coastline from above

The stunning Albanian Riviera continues to grow in popularity year-on-year. Beyond the stunning videos online there really is a lack of real information on logistics for a trip.

During my three-week Albania trip, I spent the coastal part of my journey between three main places: Himarë, Sarandë, and Ksamil. As budget is important to me, I had to choose wisely so split my time between only two places and visited the most popular one purely as a day trip. 

If you’re trying to navigate the Albanian coast for your trip based on your own personal travel style and budget, here is an honest breakdown of all three based on my own experience. 

The Coastal Breakdown at a Glance

DestinationsBest ForSuggested StayEst. Daily Budget
Himarë Laid-back beaches and hiking 2 - 3 Nights $35 - $48

€30 - €40

£25 - £35

Sarandë Seaview restaurants and good transport links 3 - 4 Nights $40 - $55

€35 - €45

£30 - £40

Ksamil A day trip and pretty photos 1 Day $80 - $130

€70 - €120

£60 - £100

Insanely gorgeous waters on Himarë beach with clear blue water and sail boats
The insanely beautiful two-toned waters that sit at the beach of Himarë

Himarë - Laid-back Backpacker Vibe

If you’re looking for a laid-back experience along the coast that is backpacker friendly then this is the place. Between rugged mountains and the sea, this gorgeous coastal town is a dream (and my favourite!). 

Why Stay in Himarë?

  • Free public beaches: Unlike other parts of the Albanian coast, you don’t have to pay to actually access the coast. Here, you can walk on down to the sand and lay your towel for free.
  • Local food spots: The town is home to many local restaurants ran by families as opposed to inflated tourist-priced restaurants.
  • Adventure nearby: It is perfect for nearby nature adventures like hiking to hidden canyon beaches. 
Himarë in the evening with the city lit and mountains in the back
Himarë in the evening from the tents at Pine Side Camping

Best Things to do in Himarë:

  • Hike to beaches: If you like a hike then head to Gjipe beach and you’ll pass through lots of other stunning beaches on the way like Jale beach and Livadhi beach.
  • Explore the ruins of Himarë castle: Located high on a rocky hill, the fortress offers panoramic views of the Albanian coast.
  • Take a sunset boat tour: They take you to hidden beaches and coves before heading back slowly as the sun comes down.
  • Stroll the promenade and eat fresh seafood: Seafood is an essential part of the cuisine along the coast. Enjoy a stroll along the seafront with a sea-view dinner at least once. 
  • Rope climb down to Filikuri beach: If you like adventure and thrill, hike to Filikuri and climb down the slightly sketchy and slightly dangerous cliff. If you want to be safe then you can also get a taxi boat or kayak to the bay. 
The gorgeous hidden gem of Filikuri Beach near Himarë
The beautiful beach of Filikuri from above
The golden sunset from a boat trip in Himarë
The sunset on our boat tour after exploring hidden coves and beaches

Where to Stay in Himarë

While Himarë has a relaxed, small-town atmosphere, it still offers a great range of accommodations meaning you’ll easily find a place that fits your budget and style.

  • Luxury: Miamar HotelHigh-end luxury in Livadh Beach with pools, private beach area, and sea-view balconies.

  • Mid-Range: Prinos Hotel & ApartmentsSleek, modern apartments offering quiet oceanfront views and great service.

  • Budget: Himara Hostel  A cozy, relaxed garden hostel close to the beach and old town.

Unique Stay

Pine Side Camp: Alongside my hostel stay in Himarë, I spent a night at Pine Side Camp and can’t recommend it enough. It’s tucked directly into a pine forest right on the water, it offers high-quality tents set up on wooden platforms. You literally fall asleep to the sound of the waves with a gorgeous night sky and city glow outside your tent and wake up in a serene area, all while being a simple 10-minute walk from the main town centre. It’s ideal if you want an affordable, immersive nature experience to add to your Himarë stay.

Gray camping tents pitched under shaded pine trees on a cliffside overlooking the vibrant blue ocean at Pine Side Camp in Himarë, Albania.
The gorgeous waters of Himarë from the tents on under the pine trees
A takeout pizza box and a bottle of Coca-Cola on a wooden table at night, with illuminated camping tents nestled under pine trees at Pine Side Camp in Himarë.
Our takeaway pizza at the camp site after dark
The gorgeous sunset over the area next to camp site

Sarandë - Perfect All Rounder

The unofficial capital of the Albanian Riviera, Sarandë is a larger town built into a horseshoe bay with a long seaside promenade.

Why Stay in Sarandë?

  • Backpacker community: It’s a popular spot for people exploring Albania so it’s home to some great backpacker hostels. 
  • Great transport connections: Buses run regularly along the coast through Sarandë as well as east towards Gjirokaster and back to Tirana
  • Nightlife: When it gets dark, the promenade livens up. Not just for beers at the bar but for casual strolls down the beach or sea view restaurant. The town has a great night energy. 
A dreamy sunset over the golden-lit city of Sarandë from the hilltop Lakursi Castle
The insanely gorgeous sunset from Lekursi Castle overlooking the coastline of Sarandë

Best Things to do in Sarandë

  • Sunset at Lekursi Castle: Hike up or taxi up to the gorgeous castle sat perfectly overlooking the entire bay of Sarandë.
  • Stroll the promenade: Enjoy the evening vibes of Sarandë, the beach comes alive.
  • Visit the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër): A stunning turquoise natural water spring that bubbles deep within a pool of blue. The water is pretty cold at around 10°c. 
  • Explore Butrint National Archaeological Park: A UNESCO World Heritage site located south, close to the Greek border. It’s home to 6th century Roman and Greek ruins in incredible condition.
  • Day Trip to Ksamil: Located a short 20 minute bus journey south, it’s a perfect day or half-day trip.
The natural beauty of the Blue Eye (Syri I Kalter) in Albania
The Blue Eye on a gorgeous summer day
The crystal-clear waters flowing through the forested area near the Blue Eye
River running through nearby forests
The huge and well-preserved amphitheatre at Butrint National Archeological Park in the south of Albania
Butrint National Archeological Park's well-preserved amphitheatre

Where to Stay in Sarandë

As Sarandë is one of the coast’s main resort towns, the accommodation options are endless. There is something here for every type of traveller, from budget hostels to luxury beach resorts.

  • High-End: ArtNest Boutique Hotel & Suites Stylish boutique hotel with ocean vistas, high-end rooms, and excellent service.

  • Mid-Range: Saranda Palace  Comfortable mid-range hotel right on the beach with a private pool and sun loungers.

  • Budget: Hostel Hasta La VistaHighly rated, social hostel with a roof terrace, garden, and easy access to transportation.

Ksamil - Instagram Luxury

Likely the one place you’ve seen most about online, it’s famous for its bright white sand beaches and gorgeous aesthetic. It’s undeniably breathtaking but for a backpacker it’s a nightmare. 

Why Day Trip to Ksamil?

  • Limited beach access: The beaches are 90% privatised by beach clubs which will charge anything from €20 to €50 to rent a sun lounger for an afternoon. This means the “free” section of the beach is absolutely packed full of people. 
  • High accommodation costs: Hotel prices here are a lot higher than the rest of Albania. A budget option would set you back more than double the price of nearby Sarandë.
  • Smart backpacker: Don’t spend all your trip funds on staying here overnight, just visit on a day trip. It’s super quick, easy and affordable to catch the local bus from Sarandë. It costs 100ALL (£0.90/€1.05) and takes 20 minutes.
The sun loungers on the sunny beaches and resorts of Ksamil
Paid sun loungers covering almost the entire beach in Ksamil

Day Trip Route Suggestion: Take the early morning local bus from Sarandë to Butrint National Park (located just past Ksamil). Spend a few hours wandering around the ancient Roman ruins hidden in jungle wetlands before jumping on local bus back to Ksamil for the afternoon. Before dinner, jump back on the local bus back to Sarandë for the perfect day of budget, beaches and roman ruins!

Note: This is exactly what I did and it works perfectly.

Beach-front hotels with private sun loungers and beach access
The beachfront hotels with their private sun loungers and beach access

My Recommendation for a Trip to the Albanian Riviera

Albania is naturally impressive, and the coast is huge part of the beauty of the country so it’s important you do it right. 

If you’re like me, a budget traveller who loves adventure, nature and relaxation then here’s what I’d recommend: 2 or 3 nights in the quieter town of Himarë and 3 days in Sarandë with a day trip to Ksamil. 

By no means am I trying to diss Ksamil, it is beyond gorgeous in every aspect, however, it’s extremely touristy and prices correlate to this. Honestly, there were plenty of beaches I explored in Himarë which were just as nice or dare I say it, nicer than Ksamil. 

Be sure to book accommodations through sites like booking.com or Agoda to take advantage of their reward programmes.

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