How to Spend 4 Days in Jaisalmer: Living Forts, Havelis and Desert Life
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Jaisalmer, a desert city that looks just like a giant sandcastle. Also known as India’s “Golden City”, it is one of Rajasthan’s most impressive destinations. Built almost entirely from yellow sandstone, it’s famous for its medieval architecture, vibrant bazaars and being home to one of the world’s last living forts.
Many travellers skip Jaisalmer or rush through it in a day or two. Spending a few days here gives you the perfect balance of exploring ancient sights without rushing and also allows you to spend a night in the desert under the stars. Whether you have 3, 4 or 5 days in Jaisalmer, this guide will cover everything you need to plan the most unforgettable trip.
Contents
Logistics and Practicalities
Best Time to Visit: For ideal weather, November to February offers pleasant, cool desert weather (10°c -25°c). May to August are considered the least desirable as temperatures sore to 40°c meaning it’s the quietest for tourism.
How Many Days: At least 2 days in the city, and 1 day for an overnight excursion into the desert. I’d encourage 4-5 days total to be able to explore at a relaxed pace.
How to Get There: Direct trains run from Delhi, Jaipur and Jodhpur and direct buses run from Jodhpur and Bikaner. Transport is affordable, I took a bus from Bikaner which cost only $5.90.
What to See and Do in Jaisalmer
Inside the Fort:
Wander Around: Explore the sandstone alleys and cannon viewpoints which offer incredible views of the city and desert
Go Shopping: Stop by a few of the souvenir or fabric shops ran by locals to get something to take home with you
Explore Religion: Check out the incredible architecture of the 15th-century Jain Temples and learn about the religion
Eat Rajasthani Food: Head up to one of the many restaurants that offers local food with a view
Outside the Fort:
Patwon Ki Haveli: Admire the largest, possibly most impressive mansion complex in the city, famous for its carved stone balconies.
Kuldhara Ghost Village: Explore an abandoned 13-century village with a mysterious history of fleeing villagers from a cursed village.
Gadisar Lake: Relax at this peaceful man-made lake surrounded by shrines and pavilions.
Bada Bagh: Enjoy this stunning complex of royal cenotaphs located around 6km from the city.
Thar Desert: Head out into this incredibly vast landscape for a unique experience.e
Thar Desert Safari
An overnight trip into the Thar Desert is a highlight of visiting Jaisalmer, but it’s important to choose the right experience.
Commercial Camps (Sam Dunes): Crowded, loud, resort-style tents and touristy activities like dune bashing.
Authentic Safaris (Private Dunes): Quiet, camel riding, 4×4 transport, watching the sunset on untouched dunes and sleeping under the stars on open-air cots.
Looking for more about an authentic Thar Desert safari experience?
Where to Stay in Jaisalmer
Visiting Jaisalmer means making a decision on where to stay: inside or outside the fort.
Inside the fort offers a one-of-a-kind experience within insane views over the city and desert below. Alternatively, staying outside the fort means more affordable rooms and panoramic views of the illuminated fort skyline.
I opted to stay inside the fort at Hotel Garh Jaisal Haveli which was an incredible hotel with wonderful staff, beautiful rooms and a stunning rooftop dining space. Being able to stay inside the fort is more than just a hotel with access to the fort, it’s an experience in itself and one I couldn’t recommend more.
Looking for more Jaisalmer accommodation?
Where to Eat in Jaisalmer
Both inside and outside of the fort you will find plenty of rooftop restaurants which offer incredible views. Whilst the food is authentic and usually delicious, they are catered to tourists and are priced higher than usual.
If you’re looking for local options, head to the main Bazaar Street outside of the fort. Here you’ll find vegetarian meals at local dhabas.
Jaisalmer Budget and Costs
Jaisalmer is possible no matter what your budget is. I am budget-conscious but splashed out on a nice accommodation and private overnight safari tour during my 5 nights in in the Golden City. Even with an incredible experience, I spent only 38 USD on average per day. Here’s a daily cost estimate for guidance:
| Travel Style | Accommodation | Food & Drink | Transport & Sightseeing | Total Per Day |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Budget |
500 - 1200 INR
(Hostel dorms / guesthouses) |
400 - 800 INR
(Street food, thais, chai) |
300 - 1000 INR
(Walking, standard entry) |
1200 - 3000 INR
13 - 32 USD |
| Mid-Range |
2500 - 5000 INR
(Heritage haveli or boutique stay) |
1200 - 2500 INR
(Rooftop cafes and restaurants) |
1000 - 2500 INR
(Autos, private taxis and entrance fees) |
4700 - 10,000 INR
50 - 106 USD |
| Luxury |
10,000 - 35,000+ INR
(Luxury hotel stays) |
4,000 - 10,000+ INR
(Upscale restaurants and fine dining) |
3000 - 8000+ INR
(Private car with driver and luxury tours) |
17,000 - 53000+ INR
180 - 560+ USD |
Getting Around Jaisalmer
One of the best parts about visiting Jaisalmer is that the city and fort are entirely walkable. The narrow alleys are also really enjoyable to stroll through.
If you need to go further than the city for places like Bada Bagh or Kuldhara then you’ll need to take an auto-rickshaw. As Uber doesn’t operate in Jaisalmer, you’ll need to negotiate prices with drivers. Short city trips should cost around 100INR ($1.05) and further trips will vary depending on waiting times and so on.
For reference, I paid 1100INR ($11.60) for a round-trip with an hour waiting time at Kuldhara Ghost Village.
Summary
Jaisalmer is one of my personal favourites. It’s unique and an incredible experience. By spending 3 to 5 days in Rajasthan’s Golden City, you’ll be able to explore everything without rushing.
Be sure to explore related posts to build the most incredible trip in India.
Hi, I'm Kelly!
Welcome to The Untold Journeys, a travel blog with a focus on raw, authentic travels and finding those exciting hidden gems.
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